Awesome - With One Caveat
Like the previous version, this is a terrific shoe. When I am outside, this is my "go to" shoe, period/full stop. However, in the new version, the toe has been re-designed to get your big toe right over the front edge of the shoe. That makes the toe section a little more roomy that the previous version. So I STRONGLY advise you to drop down 1/2 size from whatever size you wore in the previous model of this shoe. FWIW: I wear 45.5 in several models of LaSportiva, like the Solution, Solution Comp and Miura VS; and in this new version of the Katana Laces, I wear a 45 even.... Show more
georgeb
originally posted on REI
Dare I say this shoe is a masterpiece?!?!?!
First, a couple of caveats; different climbing shoes/brands favor different macro foot types (wide forefoot, a narrow heel, etc.) and different toe box shapes (Greek, Egyptian, square, etc.). I have always found all La Sportiva footwear products to match my feet better than other brands, and I have a narrow heel, tall arch, wide forefoot, and Greek toe box.I have been climbing in Katana Laces for many years, so I was very very excited to see the new Katana Lace update drop, and hands down, these shoes are absolute perfection. The lace version of the Katana is very different from the Katana strap, and the lace box allows you to dial in the fit precisely to your foot volumeHaving a few different La Sportiva climbing shoe models I regularly use, I particularly love ... MoreFirst, a couple of caveats; different climbing shoes/brands favor different macro foot types (wide forefoot, a narrow heel, etc.) and different toe box shapes (Greek, Egyptian, square, etc.). I have always found all La Sportiva footwear products to match my feet better than other brands, and I have a narrow heel, tall arch, wide forefoot, and Greek toe box.I have been climbing in Katana Laces for many years, so I was very very excited to see the new Katana Lace update drop, and hands down, these shoes are absolute perfection. The lace version of the Katana is very different from the Katana strap, and the lace box allows you to dial in the fit precisely to your foot volumeHaving a few different La Sportiva climbing shoe models I regularly use, I particularly love the Katana Lace on hard face climbs – they can edge on anything! But then you add the rigidity of La Sportiva’s P3 platform, and the result is you can transfer the power of muscular movements through the shoe to the hold to complete very dynamic moves. When you combine this with the downturned structure of the shoe, the result is they excel not only on face climbs but also on anything overhung. I often bring these as my first choice to my local project or for a gym session. That said, I will say that due to the shoe's snug, downturned toe, performance orientation, they are not my first choice for long multi-pitch or alpine days.Now, the new update is absolutely perfect—a reformed and refined version of its predecessor. The rubber mix used in the construction is the same but cut slightly differently. This is seen in the extension of rubber over the knuckle of the big toe (which is great and noticeable!). Also somewhat different is the heel rubber is both more narrow and has a thicker depth. I have found this update to make a difference when trying to lock my heel into a solid heel hook. Last of all, I find the new construction methods have made for slightly more compression in the forefoot, further increasing stability and support. La Sportiva took one of the best shoes on the market and made it a masterpiece.Such an amazing climbing shoe!... Show more
AlpineJig
originally posted on REI
Dislike the redesign
I bought a pair of the Katana's last year based on Outdoor Gear Lab reviews. Based on the rave reviews on comfort and the fact that they did everything well with the exception of steep terrain objectives, I was sold. I have been climbing for over 30 years, and the days of sizing my shoes small to project hard stuff, all the while looking forward to taking off my shoes before completing the pitch were over. I was very happy with my original pair of Katana's, enough so that I went ahead and bought an another pair recently without reading any reviews on the redesign. I mean it was the top shoe in Outdoor's review! Well I should have read the reviews. The redesign improves the shoe in one regard and totally messes it up in another. The extra rubber in the heal does help ... MoreI bought a pair of the Katana's last year based on Outdoor Gear Lab reviews. Based on the rave reviews on comfort and the fact that they did everything well with the exception of steep terrain objectives, I was sold. I have been climbing for over 30 years, and the days of sizing my shoes small to project hard stuff, all the while looking forward to taking off my shoes before completing the pitch were over. I was very happy with my original pair of Katana's, enough so that I went ahead and bought an another pair recently without reading any reviews on the redesign. I mean it was the top shoe in Outdoor's review! Well I should have read the reviews. The redesign improves the shoe in one regard and totally messes it up in another. The extra rubber in the heal does help with heel hooks. The redesign of the toe box misses the mark of what made the shoe great by affedting the comfort and/or sensitivity of the shoe. If you want to maintain the sensitivity of the previous shoe you will either have to size down at least a 1/2 and possibly a 1 full size. I went with a 1/2 size, sacrificing comfort as well as sensitivity! Message to La Sportiva. You have other models that hit the mark for steeps with the Solution, Muira VS, Skwama. Bring back the old design, otherwise I am looking for another shoe!... Show more
mlcp162190 m
originally posted on backcountry.com
Great for first non-beginner shoe
I started climbing about three months ago and started off with Scarpa Helix, which I like a lot, but I quickly advanced in my technique and climbing level so I grabbed a pair of used, like-new, Miras. The Miras killed my feet and did not fit my foot well (think my foot is too narrow and it made the heel fit weird when I tightened the shoe). I returned the Miras even though I got them for 50% off and picked up a brand new pair of Katana Laces. The Miras and Helix were both 42.5 and I went down to a 41.5 in the Katanas and they feel amazing. They hurt a little the first few sessions but broke in very nicely. I can wear these for a 3-4 hour session without taking them off or loosening them. Though I haven't been climbing long (now a v3-5, 5.10-11 indoor), I find that ... MoreI started climbing about three months ago and started off with Scarpa Helix, which I like a lot, but I quickly advanced in my technique and climbing level so I grabbed a pair of used, like-new, Miras. The Miras killed my feet and did not fit my foot well (think my foot is too narrow and it made the heel fit weird when I tightened the shoe). I returned the Miras even though I got them for 50% off and picked up a brand new pair of Katana Laces. The Miras and Helix were both 42.5 and I went down to a 41.5 in the Katanas and they feel amazing. They hurt a little the first few sessions but broke in very nicely. I can wear these for a 3-4 hour session without taking them off or loosening them. Though I haven't been climbing long (now a v3-5, 5.10-11 indoor), I find that these offer a lot of control with edging without being too aggressive. I think they are a great, versatile, all-around shoe. I wear them indoors and outdoor bouldering and also sport climbing and find that they always perform well. For me, it is all about the comfort and the fit - they fit my feet great, but maybe they won't fit yours. I have a size 10-10.5 street shoe size and an average width foot and went down to 41.5 EU for these.... Show more
Streets4peeps_NotCars
originally posted on moosejaw.com
New Favorite
I lived in my La Sportiva TC Pro's and would occasionally switch to my So iLL Topo Collab shoes depending on what I was climbing. For a while I tolerated the very tiny air pockets around the bottom of my heel on both shoes (though my heel never slipped out)...until it actually affected my climbing. After slipping and/or falling off several attempts heel hooking in various positions on different routes, I thought it was time to look into some different shoes. After some research, the Katana Lace kept popping up as one of the best options for low volume heels. I've tried different Scarpa and 5.10 models before and I'd always end up with blisters on the back of my heel. I loved the overall fit of my TC Pro's so decided to stick with La Sportiva.I've been extremely ... MoreI lived in my La Sportiva TC Pro's and would occasionally switch to my So iLL Topo Collab shoes depending on what I was climbing. For a while I tolerated the very tiny air pockets around the bottom of my heel on both shoes (though my heel never slipped out)...until it actually affected my climbing. After slipping and/or falling off several attempts heel hooking in various positions on different routes, I thought it was time to look into some different shoes. After some research, the Katana Lace kept popping up as one of the best options for low volume heels. I've tried different Scarpa and 5.10 models before and I'd always end up with blisters on the back of my heel. I loved the overall fit of my TC Pro's so decided to stick with La Sportiva.I've been extremely happy with the Katana Laces since I put them on. Using the TC Pro's (and some online reviews) for sizing guidance, I did the same as my TC's and sized down from my street shoe size by 1 (38 street to 37 climbing shoe). The first day I slipped them on to climb, I wore them for 3 hours without a problem - they were surprisingly comfortable (relatively speaking for a climbing shoe) out of the box. I'm happy with its performance for edging and smearing, and the fact that I can get incrementally more precision and sensitivity from the Katana Laces which helps boost my confidence and comfort while climbing; and regarding the heels, I couldn't ask for a more perfect fit. It's a great all-around shoe!... Show more
Michelle
originally posted on moosejaw.com
next level shoes!
my girlfriend got me these for Christmas and transitioning to these from my Black Diamond Momentums was like night and day. They feel like pure quality and fit like a glove, the rubber is nice grippy but not too soft, and the toe is pleasantly comfortable but surgically precise. I'd like to help a few people with sizing because It's a bit tough to get right the first time - I am a 10.5 street shoe size, at first my gf got me size 43, they felt nice and comfy but we're a bit too roomy as they stretched out. Took them in for an exchange to 42.5 and they fit a bit more snug and felt closer to that ideal performance fit. These shoes stretch A LOT. While 42.5 feels good I feel a bit more flex in the toe than I'd like. I think for my next pair I will opt for a size 42 and ... Moremy girlfriend got me these for Christmas and transitioning to these from my Black Diamond Momentums was like night and day. They feel like pure quality and fit like a glove, the rubber is nice grippy but not too soft, and the toe is pleasantly comfortable but surgically precise. I'd like to help a few people with sizing because It's a bit tough to get right the first time - I am a 10.5 street shoe size, at first my gf got me size 43, they felt nice and comfy but we're a bit too roomy as they stretched out. Took them in for an exchange to 42.5 and they fit a bit more snug and felt closer to that ideal performance fit. These shoes stretch A LOT. While 42.5 feels good I feel a bit more flex in the toe than I'd like. I think for my next pair I will opt for a size 42 and see if I can tolerate it. Having a toe with minimal flex is so important when it comes to taking on the harder more edgy routes.All in all, this is a wonderful upgrade and the lacing system is quite impressive as well. Give them a try and you won't be disappointed!... Show more
IBartman
originally posted on REI
Perfect Intermediate Climbing Shoe
Having gotten obsessively into gym climbing in June 2022, I started looking for a step up from my tarantulaces as I started comfortably being a v4 send / v5 project climber. I fully understand that people are crushing v10s in tarantulas but once mine blew out I decided I'd like to try a more technical, performance oriented shoe. If I didn't like it, I figured I could always get my tarantulas re-soled. So I scoured every corner of the internet to aggregate opinions on the best aggressive shoe for a still-relatively new climber.To make a long story short, after trying and returning both the Miura VS and Skwama's I thought I'd try one last time to find my cinderella slipper and get the Katana Laces. The Miura and Skwama's seems significantly more popular and talked ... MoreHaving gotten obsessively into gym climbing in June 2022, I started looking for a step up from my tarantulaces as I started comfortably being a v4 send / v5 project climber. I fully understand that people are crushing v10s in tarantulas but once mine blew out I decided I'd like to try a more technical, performance oriented shoe. If I didn't like it, I figured I could always get my tarantulas re-soled. So I scoured every corner of the internet to aggregate opinions on the best aggressive shoe for a still-relatively new climber.To make a long story short, after trying and returning both the Miura VS and Skwama's I thought I'd try one last time to find my cinderella slipper and get the Katana Laces. The Miura and Skwama's seems significantly more popular and talked about online, especially with regards to a good intermediate shoe, but in terms of what this means for someone like me the Katana's ended up being my saviors.There is still some serious aggression to these shoes, and the toe box is such an upgrade from the Tarantulaces that it's hard to describe. I've gone from nominally trusting my toes out of necessity to LOVING the puzzle of proper footwork. Especially on more aggressively overhung routes or slabbier problems with tortuous foot chips. I can't explain it- but if you're a newer climber like me you will be ecstatic the first time you feel the new sensitivity and control you have over the way your toe can pull a pocket now. These shoes were still uncomfortable for the first 2 weeks, but SIGNIFICANTLY less so compared to the Miuras and Skwamas. And now, after almost a month of climbing 3 times a week, they fit perfectly.SIZING: I'm a street shoe 42.5 and I got these in a 40.5. People suggest sizing down even more because of stretch, but I found even after the significant stretch-in period I still have no air pockets or extra room in the front. I suppose this could still change but for now I would say 2 sizes down from street shoe is perfect.... Show more
artie
originally posted on REI
What A Difference
I am a solid intermediate climber and I've been in a pair of Evolv Defy shoes for a few years. I had been pretty convinced that if anything, my gear wasn't the thing holding me back. Turns out, I should've switched shoes a long time ago. This was a pretty dramatic upgrade for a bunch of reasons, but particularly in the shape; this is a much more aggressive shoe than I am used to, but i haven't had any trouble adapting.The toebox is a little tight for my wider-than-average forefoot, but feel like as they continue to break-in and this will improve a bit. This is also overshadowed by my newfound ability to edge, hook, grab and pull with my toe. I am WAY more confident, mostly because I can actually rely on the fact that the shoe is going to hold. I feel the same way ... MoreI am a solid intermediate climber and I've been in a pair of Evolv Defy shoes for a few years. I had been pretty convinced that if anything, my gear wasn't the thing holding me back. Turns out, I should've switched shoes a long time ago. This was a pretty dramatic upgrade for a bunch of reasons, but particularly in the shape; this is a much more aggressive shoe than I am used to, but i haven't had any trouble adapting.The toebox is a little tight for my wider-than-average forefoot, but feel like as they continue to break-in and this will improve a bit. This is also overshadowed by my newfound ability to edge, hook, grab and pull with my toe. I am WAY more confident, mostly because I can actually rely on the fact that the shoe is going to hold. I feel the same way about the heel. The heel fit is solid. No slipping whatsoever, the heel cup is really well built and feels like it is glued to my footIt's still pretty soggy around here, so I've only used these in the gym, but my indoor game is greatly improved and I can't wait to get them outside.... Show more
Undermonkey
originally posted on REI
Wow, Just Wow, with just one caveat...
I recently received a pair of the 2022 Katana Laces as a gift, ergo source unknown. For years, the Katana Lace has been my "go to" for outside climbing, because of its outstanding edging, ability to toe into cracks and pockets and confidence-inspiring ability to friction-smear on less than vertical slabs. So I was excited to try on the supposedly improved 2022 version. Wow! This shoe has a very pronounced curve/downturn which you can feel under your entire foot from just in front of the heel all the way to your big toe. I immediately wished this curve will last the life of the shoe. In this new model, you can really feel the P3 curve under the ball of your foot and the curve of your toes. The heel really does feel tighter than the previous model. I can easily see ... MoreI recently received a pair of the 2022 Katana Laces as a gift, ergo source unknown. For years, the Katana Lace has been my "go to" for outside climbing, because of its outstanding edging, ability to toe into cracks and pockets and confidence-inspiring ability to friction-smear on less than vertical slabs. So I was excited to try on the supposedly improved 2022 version. Wow! This shoe has a very pronounced curve/downturn which you can feel under your entire foot from just in front of the heel all the way to your big toe. I immediately wished this curve will last the life of the shoe. In this new model, you can really feel the P3 curve under the ball of your foot and the curve of your toes. The heel really does feel tighter than the previous model. I can easily see talented climbers raving about that. Now, here's the caveat: La Sportiva has said they have changed the way the toe is constructed, to bring your toes closer right above the front edge and closer to the rock. Engineering-wise, this a great; BUT it makes to front of the shoe a little more roomy. Therefore, I advise you to seriously consider dropping down 1/2 size from the size of your previous Katana Lace, to account for this change and to take full advantage of the front-edge power now available in the 2022 version.... Show more
Jeanne R
originally posted on backcountry.com
Yep!
After my first pair of shoes wore out, I wanted to move into a more aggressive shoe. I got some Miuras and boy oh boy are those awesome. They perform like a dream. But they were miserable to wear. Way too tight for my foot. I have a wide toe box and fussy feet and these were just too uncomfortable. So I went on a quest to find something that performed well AND wouldn't make me want to abandon the sport mid-route every single climb. A friend told me these were her all time favorite shoe, so I tried them. I find they perform fabulously and they are actually comfortable enough that I don't want to immediately take them off between routes at the gym. Sometimes I just keep them on and they don't bother me. Such a good find.... Show more
Rachel C
originally posted on backcountry.com
