Scarpa Vapor V Women EU 39.5 / Dahlia/Aqua

I had previously sworn off the Scarpa Vapor climbing shoe after a bad experience where a climbing gym employee put me in the wrong size (read: 2 sizes too small) and told me they’d stretch. Pro tip: they will not stretch two full sizes. I gave the newer model of the Vapor V a chance after hearing great things about them and I'm so glad I did. After the initial break-in period, I found these shoes to be incredibly comfortable. It’s not uncommon for me to wear these for hours at a time in the gym without taking them off between climbs. The micro suede upper and suede foot base inside the shoe makes the Vapor V comfortable to wear for extended periods of time during either big multi-pitch routes or long sessions at the gym. The tongue on this model of the Vapor V is ... MoreI had previously sworn off the Scarpa Vapor climbing shoe after a bad experience where a climbing gym employee put me in the wrong size (read: 2 sizes too small) and told me they’d stretch. Pro tip: they will not stretch two full sizes. I gave the newer model of the Vapor V a chance after hearing great things about them and I'm so glad I did. After the initial break-in period, I found these shoes to be incredibly comfortable. It’s not uncommon for me to wear these for hours at a time in the gym without taking them off between climbs. The micro suede upper and suede foot base inside the shoe makes the Vapor V comfortable to wear for extended periods of time during either big multi-pitch routes or long sessions at the gym. The tongue on this model of the Vapor V is noticeably more padded than the previous model, which adds an extra level of comfort and breathability. You won't be disappointed!

Great for transitioning into a moderate aggressive

I got these shoes after returning a pair of Instincts. While I love the instincts, they were too narrow at the toes and always made my toes ache and go numb at the end of each session. The toe box on these are slightly wider so my middle toe doesn't stack over my big toe which is what I needed. They also have a padded tongue for extra comfort. The bottoms of the shoe are stiffer than your average shoe, so just beware if you're not a fan of harder shoes. So far these are a good shoe for any style of climb. However, I do believe that the Instincts provide more grip and control when stepping on tiny foot chips.

Great performance. Weird tongue. Be careful with sizing!

I've been using these indoors with the intention of outdoor use as well since the rubber is stiff and thick.I tried on a pair in person and the sizing felt pretty good at euro 37, although there were no half sizes to try on and I'm about a 7 womens in street shoe size. When buying online I opted for a 37.5 just in case. SO glad I made that call! Turns out a completely fresh pair is quite the challenge to break in, especially when the shoe is more stiff than the slipper styles I'm used to. In retrospect, I think a euro 38 might have been even better. This is coming from a person who thinks "performance fit" is kinda overrated so take that with a grain of salt.I really appreciate the small heel - so many shoes have gigantic heels. I can finally heel hook with ... MoreI've been using these indoors with the intention of outdoor use as well since the rubber is stiff and thick.I tried on a pair in person and the sizing felt pretty good at euro 37, although there were no half sizes to try on and I'm about a 7 womens in street shoe size. When buying online I opted for a 37.5 just in case. SO glad I made that call! Turns out a completely fresh pair is quite the challenge to break in, especially when the shoe is more stiff than the slipper styles I'm used to. In retrospect, I think a euro 38 might have been even better. This is coming from a person who thinks "performance fit" is kinda overrated so take that with a grain of salt.I really appreciate the small heel - so many shoes have gigantic heels. I can finally heel hook with confidence. What's more surprising to me is how nice and roomy the toe box is, as well. You don't typically see shoes that accommodate small heels and long toes and bunions.I also like the thick, grippy rubber. Coming from shoes like the solution it's a bit of adjustment in terms of feeling like you don't have any feedback to your toes. That being said, the edging power you get is the tradeoff for the lack of sensitivity. It also means these shoes will probably perform better outdoors on sharp limestone (and probably last longer, as well).My only complaint about these shoes is the tongue causes pressure points on my metatarsals. The stitching is a bit sloppy and the tongue itself is weirdly stiff. In a shoe that excels in so many areas it's a bit sad that the tongue is designed almost like it was an afterthought. I think it'll soften up over time but it still seems like a strange part of a shoe that is, overall, pretty great.

Great shoe, but size up!

I read some reviews saying to size down in these, and my pair of Scarpa Origins that I bought in my regular street shoe size stretched waaaaaaay out over a year's time. However, these are very tight and I probably can't wear them. However, everything about the shoe seems like it would be great, especially the cushioned tongue and the double straps. Unfortunately I will have to buy a new pair in a larger size.

Hoka Kaha 2 Womens Mid Gore-Tex Trail Walking Boots

I had a knee replacement a year ago and am trying to get back into hiking. Unfortunately over the past year I have had plantar fasciitis, a plantar tear and insertional achilles tendonitis so I need really comfy but supportive footwear. I already have Hoka Anacapa lows but need more ankle support and after much research decided to go for the Kahas. So far I'm finding them very comfy.

I really like these shoes

I needed more aggressive shoes for the more technical/overhanging routes. My starter shoes(La Sportiva Oxygyms) were not cutting it(bad time whenever there were steep overhangs or tiny, nubby foot holds, and they aren't too great for smearing, either. Not sticky enough, and not firm or precise enough). These are really sturdy, precise, and can actually smear. I was horrified at first because I followed the reccomendation of sizing down a size since many people said that they stretch, and they were pretty tight and painful at first, especially on the big toes. Beware if you are new to climbing shoes here, because you might swear they're way too small even if they are the right size when you start the break in with these. Seriously, the first day I tried them on, I ... MoreI needed more aggressive shoes for the more technical/overhanging routes. My starter shoes(La Sportiva Oxygyms) were not cutting it(bad time whenever there were steep overhangs or tiny, nubby foot holds, and they aren't too great for smearing, either. Not sticky enough, and not firm or precise enough). These are really sturdy, precise, and can actually smear. I was horrified at first because I followed the reccomendation of sizing down a size since many people said that they stretch, and they were pretty tight and painful at first, especially on the big toes. Beware if you are new to climbing shoes here, because you might swear they're way too small even if they are the right size when you start the break in with these. Seriously, the first day I tried them on, I felt like I was killing my feet. It hurt all my toes and the sides of my feet to stand and walk in them, and they just felt overall really weird and I was sure I would have to return them, but still gave them a chance anyway. They do indeed begin to stretch, thankfully, and got much better after just one session, though I had to take them off after every route, and wasn't able to wear them for the whole session even with breaks.After climbing in them a solid 6 or 7 times, they've definitely become more wearable, and don't feel so "weird" anymore. My feet just needed to learn how to their more hard, curved shape. I'm getting more and more used to them as I continue to break them in, and I can actually use them for my entire climbing sessions of around 4 hours, 2 days a week in the gym(giving my feet the occasional break by taking them off, of course, as is pretty common when you're wearing moderate or aggressive shoes). I can feel that they are slowly molding to my feet, and I can just tell they'll be a favorite of mine for sure. So yes, I would still reccomend sizing down a size or a half size as well. They indeed will loosen up and become a really awesome pair of shoes with your patience! I can't really speak on the durability because I haven't used them long enough, but they feel like they're excellent quality, and I'm sure they'll hold up great.

Love the new model!

I've been wearing Vapor V's for 5 years now. They're aggressive enough for bouldering, flexible enough for slab, and for me personally they're a perfect fit. There's a good balance of sensitivity and support, and it's great for heel hook/toe hooks. Lifespan is average for other shoes in the same price range.I was nervous about this new model, but it is fantastic! My only complaint in the past was just a little bit of heel gapping, and the new model added extra padding there. Gapping gone! It also makes it insanely comfortable. The other big change was that they added some elastic behind the velcro that really tightens up the fit all over.Great shoe, excellent model. I highly recommend giving it a try if (like me) Mira's rub terribly on your pinkie toe. I wear a ... MoreI've been wearing Vapor V's for 5 years now. They're aggressive enough for bouldering, flexible enough for slab, and for me personally they're a perfect fit. There's a good balance of sensitivity and support, and it's great for heel hook/toe hooks. Lifespan is average for other shoes in the same price range.I was nervous about this new model, but it is fantastic! My only complaint in the past was just a little bit of heel gapping, and the new model added extra padding there. Gapping gone! It also makes it insanely comfortable. The other big change was that they added some elastic behind the velcro that really tightens up the fit all over.Great shoe, excellent model. I highly recommend giving it a try if (like me) Mira's rub terribly on your pinkie toe. I wear a women's size 8 in street shoes and I've worn both 39 and sized down to 38 1/2 comfortably.

Love these shoes but they have a downfall!

I bought these shoes 4 months ago and they are my second pair of shoes after my beginner ones. They are a stiff shoe but I always still felt stable on the slab walls and volumes. I do have a small heel so there is an air gap for me in the heel but that was not a huge deal for me and heel hooks still felt secure. I like that there are 2 Velcro straps so i can tighten them to the size of my foot. While standing on small foot chips in always felt so secure and I did not have much toe pain due to the shoes being stiff.The downfall with these shoes is the rubber at the toes did not last as long as I would have liked. I wore them for about 4 months and there is a hole on the big toe of one of the shoes and another hole forming on the other. That being said i do not have ... MoreI bought these shoes 4 months ago and they are my second pair of shoes after my beginner ones. They are a stiff shoe but I always still felt stable on the slab walls and volumes. I do have a small heel so there is an air gap for me in the heel but that was not a huge deal for me and heel hooks still felt secure. I like that there are 2 Velcro straps so i can tighten them to the size of my foot. While standing on small foot chips in always felt so secure and I did not have much toe pain due to the shoes being stiff.The downfall with these shoes is the rubber at the toes did not last as long as I would have liked. I wore them for about 4 months and there is a hole on the big toe of one of the shoes and another hole forming on the other. That being said i do not have terrible technique and so i would have expected them to last a lot longer and atleast up to 6 months. I climb 4-5 days a week.I am going to get these shoes resoled and see how they last with some different rubber!

Pros and cons

Overall happy with the shoe. I climb 4-5x a week and after less than 6 months there is a hole starting on the one toe, which I've never had an issue with before. Comfortable and easily able to break in after downsizing 1 size.Wish the toe cap was a tad thicker otherwise a perfect shoe. I also feel I have a shallow heel when shopping for climbing shoes. These ones are the only ones I've found that have really cupped my heels.

great for wide feet, yet I have a narrow heel

This was my second pair of climbing shoes, and I didn’t know that the heel of the shoe should be flush with your heel! I have a wide toe area, flat feet, yet a normal heel width that made these shoes overall incompatible. I’ve had the shoe for over a year and enjoyed the toe box fit. It’s great for bouldering when you need a stiff toe for pressure and stability. Low sensitivity in the toe region, so if slab is your go-to, this may not be the shoe. I really enjoyed them, although i learned that it wasn’t the right fit for my feet. This was exemplified in my tries to heel hook, yet my heel would slip out of place. I also will say that they stretched quite a bit, so definitely size down approx. 1 full size (I didn’t when I got them)! I’d still recommend them!